时尚字典No.32 Seam | Season | Selvage

FASHION

VOCABULARY

时尚字典 No.32

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1

SEAM

线 缝

The join line formed when two pieces of cloth are sewn together. Seams may be formed in different ways to produce different visual effects that have different levels of prominence. The “seam allowance” is the area between the edge and the stitching line on the pieces of material being stitched together, which ranges from 1/4 inch for curved areas to several inches for places requiring extra fabric for final fitting to the wearer.

将两块布缝在一起时形成的线缝。有各种不同的缝纫方式，以产生不同视觉效果。“缝份”是指在制作服装过程中，把缝进去的部分叫缝份，为缝合衣片在尺寸线外侧预留的边。范围从1/4英寸到几英寸，适应不同穿着者。

Running Seam 平针缝

Two pieces of fabric are joined together using a flat bed machine. These are commonly found inside a denim jacket. Pictured is a running seam with overlocked edging.

使用平式锁缝缝纫机将两块面料缝在一起。牛仔夹克中比较常用。图为平针缝加锁边。

French Seam 来去缝

The first stitch is applied to the right side of the fabric with the second on the wrong side to trap it. This method originated in Paris, France and is used on fine or transparent materials. Pictured is a French seam and pin hem.

来去缝也叫法式缝，来回车两道线，把缝口包在里面，车完的裁片不会毛边，因此裁片也不需要锁边或包边。源于法国巴黎，常用于轻薄或透明的材料。图为来去缝和底边。

Welt Seam 暗包缝

An extremely strong bond between two pieces of fabric that are effectively interlocked together, giving a distinctive pattern. One fabric has two rows of stitching and the other only one, as commonly used with denim. Pictured is a welt seam in conjunction with top stitching.

将两块面料牢固地互锁在一起，形成独特的花样。一块面料上有两排针脚，另一块则只有一排，通常用于牛仔布。图为明线暗包缝。

2

SEASON

时 装 季

A time period that corresponds to the seasons of the year for which designers produce specific garment collections. French houses tend to produce and launch a different collections twice a year. The ideas and styles they present can loosely be termed ‘this season’s fashion’. The cycle takes about a year with the process to create a spring/summer collection starting in January and ending the following January with delivery into store. The autumn/winter collections start with shows in August and fulfillment into stores the following July.

时装季与一年四季相呼应，设计师在一定时间内设计新颖入时的流行服装。法国的时装界有一年两季的传统，每次推出一个时装新系列。他们提出的想法和风格可以大致称为“本季时尚”。整个周期大约为一年，从1月设计开始，直到次年1月结束，然后交付给商店。秋冬系列从八月秀场开始，次年七月进入商店。

3

SELVAGE

布 边

The uncut edge of a woven fabric that is on the right- and left-hand edge during manufacture. Selvage or selvedge will not fray as the yarn returns on itself and thus appears finished. Selvage tends to be cut away or hidden by a hem as it may carry a different pattern to the rest of the fabric, have a different weave pattern, or lack pile.

机织织物在制造过程中位于左右两边的未切割边缘。承受在织造过程中的各种外力而不被破损，也因此看起来很规整。布边一般会被裁掉，或折向内侧隐藏起来，因为它与面料的其余部分有不同的编织花样或组织结构，质感也是不一样的。

上海大学

巴黎国际时装艺术学院